Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Soap and shopping in Aleppo


Aleppo is a joy. Much of the old town is still as it was hundreds of years ago, and the souq is a delight to wander and shop. Many of the original buildings still remain and it is a positive rabbit warren of vaulted passageways and courtyards.
It has butchers, bakers,

and I am sure if I had looked harder, I would have found a candlestick maker. It also has the usual amazing array of spices which we have become used to seeing in bazaars in the region.
A constant surprise, given especially that Aleppo is a conservative city with many fewer uncovered women than in Damascus, and with many women also wearing black, was the wide array of openly displayed colourful women's clothing and underwear. In the bath house I was chatting to a man who owns a lingerie stall and according to him business is very good.

The outerware fashion in Aleppo seems to be the double breasted black overcoat worn even despite the heat. As for the trends in underwear . . .

It was also interesting to see the original coffee sellers still traditionally dressed.
Next to the souq is the old Armenian quarter which has been renovated and which is stunning. Aleppo is famous for its cuisine which is a fusion of Syrian/Arab cuisine and Armenian. The cherry kebabs which we had in the Armenian quarter were divine.


Aleppo is also famous for its soap. The local soap is made from olive oil and laurel oil, and prices depend on age and on the percentage of laurel oil. As an old soap salesman myself, I was unable to resist purchasing a few bars, for old time's sake.

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